1989 Cos D'Estournel Tasting 12 bottles from the same case - A study in Bottle Variation

 "It wasn't always like this. Before Paris, people didn't drink our wine. I mean, my friends did. But you could hardly consider their palates discerning..."

Bo Barrett - Bottle Shock 

This is a wine tasting that I have been talking about for years and we finally have acquired a collection of wines where it is possible to host this event.  We acquired 168 bottles or 14 OWC 12 bottle cases of 1989 Cos D'Estournel from a collector that purchased them upon release and had them cellared underground until we pulled them out just over a year ago.   Provenance is everything with old wines and these are unicorns as OWC acquired upon release and never moved that were stored in perfect condition for over 35 years are very hard to find.

I love wine and the fact that it changes over time and evolves is what makes is even more interesting to me.  Over years of tasting wines the most disappointing thing to me is how over time every bottle is potentially different because of the piece of bark that they cram in the bottle to keep the wine from getting out.  The cork aka piece of bark makes every bottle potentially a different universe and therefore every bottle in a case could have a slightly different taste because of this.  Tonight we will open 12 bottles of the same wine from the same case to show you our "Wine Drinking People" why we are big advocates of alternative enclosures.

This is the first tasting of its kind to take place at Wine Watch and although we are drinking the same wine all night we will be drinking 12 different bottles        because of the piece of bark that they cram in there to keep the wine from getting out.  This is serious scientific work we are doing and tonight I will convince our tasters that natural cork needs to be replaced! 

Join us as we experience one of the greatest vintages from the 1980’s with a special menu created by chef Toni to compliment the tasting wines.  The fee for this event is $350 + tax, for reservations call 954-523-9463 or e-mail andy@winewatch.com.  Please let us know when you make your reservations if you have any dietary restrictions and chefs Toni and Dani will be happy to accommodate you.

1989 COS D'ESTOURNEL TASTING 12 BOTTLES FROM THE SAME CASE
A STUDY IN BOTTLE VARIATION
Thursday, March 28, 2024
7:30 PM

1989 CHATEAU COS D'ESTOURNEL, SAINT-ESTEPHE
Price: $425.00                   Sale Price: $350.00                        Quantity in Stock: 160
(93 Points) Complex aromas of tobacco, earth and forest leaves follow through to a medium body, with fine tannins and a fruity and soft finish. Very soft and long. At its peak, but pretty and seamless.  Wine Spectator

Menu
French Bistro Salad:  Bibb Lettuce, Walnuts, Tarragon, Chives with Hardboiled Egg and Shallot Vinaigrette
Chinese Style Crispy Duck Pancakes
Tournedos Rossini: Seared Filet, Grilled Portobello Seared Foie Gras with Truffle Demi Glaze
Apple and Cinnamon Creme Caramel Gateaux

The fee for this tasting which includes dinner is $350 + tax, for reservations call 954-523-9463 or e-mail andy@winewatch.com.  Please let us know when you make your reservation if you have any dietary restrictions or aversions and chefs Toni and Dani will be happy to accommodate you.

A bit about Chateau Cos D’Estournel:

Cos D'Estournel lies across a marshy meadow and up a slope from what may be the world's most famous wine estate, Château Lafite Rothschild.  Cos has always been an odd curiosity among the stately châteaux of the Médoc, for the property is unlike anything else in all of France.  At the top of the hill with vineyards gently fanning down and out over the surrounding slopes sits the great chai - a fantastic architectural amalgam of Chinese gothic and French country château.  D'Estournel is the legacy of its first proprietor, Monsieur Louis Gaspard D'Estournel, who used to breed horses and ship them to the Orient.  Monsieur D'Estournel was inspired by what he saw on his many trips; the entrance to Cos D'Estournel probably best embodies the former owner's taste for the exotic and the unusual of the East.  The main door to the chai once formed the entrance to the harem of the Sultan of Zanzibar and is carved with vine leaves, bunches of grapes, flowers, and wondrous animals.  Three Chinese style pagoda turrets grace the structure, and a triumphal arch leads to the main road.  The visual impact is almost shocking in the context of its surroundings; one can just imagine the controversy it must have aroused in the staid and somber Médoc of the early 1800's.


Unlike its immediate neighbors to the South in Pauillac - who were producing wines of world fame by 1800 - Cos was a late bloomer.  Although wine may have been made on the property in the late 1700's, it wasn't until the early 1800's when, according to legend, Louis decided to sell some of his home-grown stuff on one of his trips to the Orient.  However, the folks back East didn't buy a drop, and he had to cart it all the way back to France.  At the conclusion of the lengthy round trip, he found that not only did his wine travel well but that time had softened it up marvelously.  It fetched a very high price on the Bordeaux market; and from that point forward, Cos D'Estournel was in the wine business.   Louis D'Estournel continued to improve Cos all the way into the 1850's and sold it just before his death in 1853 at a price equivalent to that paid a year earlier for the great Château Mouton Rothschild.  That Cos D'Estournel had risen to a position of prominence in that era was confirmed by the 1855 Grand Cru Classification of Bordeaux.  It was ranked a second cru as well as being rated the highest rated wine of the commune of St. Estèphe.


After Mon. D'Estournel's death, the estate changed ownership several times and was bought in 1919 by the Ginestets, one of Bordeaux's leading wine families.  The proprietor at that time, Bruno Prats, was a son of one of the Ginestets (his mother was the sister of Pierre Ginestet, the former owner of Château Margaux).  Prats spent his summers at Château Marbuzet, for there has never been a real château at Cos D'Estournel - only the great chai (the winery and barrel aging facilities).  In fact, it was not until the mid seventies that the word Château was affixed to the name; before that time the label said only Cos D'Estournel. Although Cos D'Estournel has always been considered the best wine of St. Estèphe, it was never considered in the same league as some of the great châteaux of Pauillac, St. Julien, and Margaux.  All that changed under the stewardship of Prats, and Cos has gone from strength to strength.  Excellent wines were produced there in 1978 and 1979, and the Château probably produced the greatest wine in its history in 1982 - it rivaled the wines produced by the first growths.  The 1985 was every bit as good as the 1982, this elevated the prestige of Cos D'Estournel to even higher levels. 


In 1998, the PRATS brothers sold Cos d'Estournel to the Merlaut family, the owners of the Taillan group, and to Argentinian investors represented by Mr Mayano.  Cos was sold again in 2000 and currently belongs to the Société des Domaines Reybier.  With this most recent change in ownership came Jean-Guillaume Prats, great-grandson of Fernand Ginestet and son of Bruno Prats who was also the manager of Cos from 1970 to 1998.  Since Jean-Guillaume as taken the helm many critics felt that Cos D'Estournel is producing a wine that is on par with the first growths of the Médoc! 


The production of Cos D'Estournel is approximately 20,000 cases a year of a wine that is built for aging, fairly austere when young Cos needs 10-15 years of age in a great vintage like 2001 and can last for upwards of 30 years if cellared properly.  The 2001 is a typically large-scaled Cos D'Estournel, but the wine still has remarkable elegance and approachability for a wine from Saint-Estèphe.  This may be attributable partially to winemaking practices, partly to the grapes in the final blend (the vineyard is planted to 60% Cabernet and 40% Merlot), and partly to the soil.  The estate's attributes are best described by the noted English authority, Clive Coates, who says:  "Cos is really a different wine from any other St. Estèphe...a wine which is somewhat softer and more elegant, less aggressively powerful...Cos, however, has both the power and finesse, both the body and the delicacy, both the backbone and the fruit”.  In the words of Clive Coates, "Grand Vin, indeed!"

Owner of Cos d’Estournel since 2000, entrepreneur Michel Reybier is a simple and discreet man. Moved by the extraordinary personality of the estate and the audacity of its founder, his decision to acquire was clear: it would be “Cos and only Cos.”

Today he remains deeply attached to his vineyard. “At first glance, I was attracted by the history of the place. And then when I visited the estate, I felt instantly how unique, how exceptional it is.”

Michel Reybier is an active presence throughout the year and a major actor in the estate’s development. In this he resembles his predecessor Louis Gaspard d’Estournel, with whom he also shares a profound passion for Cos d’Estournel.

All the Chateau Cos D’Estournel in the Store on SALE!!

2017 CHATEAU COS D'ESTOURNEL SAINT-ESTEPHE
Price: $270.00                   Sale $237.60
(98 Points) Composed of 66% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot, 1% Petit Verdot and 1% Cabernet Franc, yields for the grand vin in 2017 were 43 hectoliters per hectare, and it was aged in 60% new oak. It came in at an alcohol of 13% and an IPT of 68. Deep garnet-purple colored, the 2017 Cos d'Estournel needs a little coaxing to unfurl, revealing beautiful expressions of preserved plums, boysenberries, blackcurrant pastilles and wild blueberries with hints of Indian spices, menthol, lilacs and mossy tree bark plus a compelling suggestion of iron ore. Medium to full-bodied, the palate has a solid backbone of firm, grainy tannins and well-knit freshness supporting the tightly wound blue and black fruits layers, finishing long and fragrant. This wine will need a good 5-7 years in bottle before it begins to blossom and should go on for at least another 40 years. I expect this wine to be a blockbuster of a head-turner when I come back and taste it at 10 years of age! Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

2000 CHATEAU COS D'ESTOURNEL SAINT ESTEPHE
Price: $450.00                   Sale Price: $335.00                        Quantity in Stock: 1
(97 Points)  Blended of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 38% Merlot and 2% Cabernet Franc, the 2000 Cos d'Estournel is deep garnet in color with a touch of brick and sporting a lot of tertiary evolution on the nose. It leaps from the glass with opulent sandalwood, Chinese five spice, cigar box and leather scents over a core of prunes, baked cherries, dried mulberries and eucalyptus plus a touch of potpourri. Medium-bodied, the palate is laden with fragrant fruitcake and exotic spice layers, framed by wonderfully plush tannins and a refreshing line, finishing with an exhilarating menthol lift.  Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

1999 CHATEAU COS D'ESTOURNEL ST. ESTEPHE MAGNUM
Price: $650.00                   Your Price: $572.00                Quantity in Stock: 1

65% Cabernet, 35% Merlot, 60% new oak; A great success for the vintage, with a first wine comprised of only 25% of the harvest; young, dark color; the gravel soils protected the harvest from rains, and resulted in considerable concentration, tannic solidity, much body and superb aromatic complexity.

1998 CHATEAU COS D'ESTOURNEL ST ESTEPHE
Price: $339.00                   Your Price: $298.32                Quantity in Stock: 1
“Bottled in April, 2000, this elegant, stylish, graceful wine is an attractive, dark ruby/purple-colored effort with subtle notes of sweet oak, licorice, herbs, and black fruits. While not massive, it is medium-bodied and ripe, with sweet tannin. Forty-eight percent of the production was utilized in this blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot. (RP)  (4/2001)  Wine Advocate

1996 CHATEAU COS D'ESTOURNEL ST. ESTEPHE
Price: $425.00                   Sale Price: $350.00                Quantity in Stock: 80
(93 Points) Made from 65% Cabernet Sauvignon and 35% Merlot, this is a huge, backward wine. The 1996 possesses an opaque purple color, as well as pure aromatics consisting of cassis, grilled herbs, coffee, and toasty new oak. Massive in the mouth, and one of the most structured and concentrated young Cos d'Estournels I have ever tasted, this thick, structured, tannic wine has closed down significantly since bottling. It requires 7-8 years of cellaring, and should last for 30-35 years. It is a fabulous Cos, but patience is required. Anticipated maturity: 2006-2030. Wine Advocate #122 (Apr 1999)

1990 CHATEAU COS D'ESTOURNEL, SAINT-ESTEPHE MAGNUM
Price: $995.00                   Sale Price: $825.00                Quantity in Stock: 5
1990 CHATEAU COS D'ESTOURNEL, SAINT-ESTEPHE
Price: $495.00                   Sale Price: $395.00                Quantity in Stock: 15
(94 Points) Not as concentrated as the 1982, or as most of the vintages made since 2001, the 1990 Cos has reached full maturity. It exhibits sweet berry fruit intermixed with spice box, herbs, and spring flowers. Expansive, round, and sensual, with wonderful purity as well as lushness, this irresistible wine can be enjoyed over the next 6-10 years. Wine Advocate # 183, Jun 2009

1986 CHATEAU COS D'ESTOURNEL, SAINT-ESTEPHE
Price: $375.00                   Sale Price: $275.00                        Quantity in Stock: 13
1986 is a vintage marked by an extremly dry summer and by harvesting carried out in ideal conditions. Very intense colour which as yet has scarcely developed. Very complete bouquet which is still closed up; spices, liquorice, cedar wood. Its structure with fine tannin is huge and the wine has full, rich flesh. Very long in the mouth. A virile wine with a future to be laid down in the cellar for many long years, but it may tasted today with game or red meats.

1983 CHATEAU COS D'ESTOURNEL ST ESTEPHE
Price: $425.00                   Sale Price: $325.00                        Quantity in Stock: 22
(91 points) Dense and powerful with tobacco, cherry and vanilla aromas and flavors. Full-bodied and very firm with a long finish. Needs time. (JS) (10/1994)  Wine Spectator

1982 CHATEAU COS D'ESTOURNEL ST. ESTEPHE
Price: $760.00                   Sale Price: $630.00                Quantity in Stock: 3
(95 points) This 1982 is still displaying a beautiful deep ruby/purple hue as well as a stunning set of aromatics consisting of blue and black fruits, loamy earth, flowers, licorice, and spice box. The wine is medium to full-bodied with sweet tannins, a medium to full-bodied mouthfeel, and a silky finish. (RP)  (6/2009)  Wine Advocate

2019 CHATEAU COS D'ESTOURNEL BLANC, BORDEAUX
Price: $270.00                   Your Price: $237.60
(97 Points) One of the best Cos Blancs for years, this is a real return to form, a great white wine that has presence and impact. Fantastic balance of rich, textured stone fruit with a fresh finish. You'll find salinity, slate texture, jasmine flowers and white pepper spice. It was a warmer year overall than 2017, and the white vines needed rain, which they got eventually but relatively late, meaning half the harvest was done on before the rain, and the other half after some freshening rainfall, which perhaps accounts for this unusual but rather beautiful marrying of the two styles. Concentrated, powerful, balanced and complex. Love it.  Decanter

2019 CHATEAU COS D'ESTOURNEL 'G D'ESTOURNEL Medoc
Price: $45.00                     Your Price: $39.60                Quantity in Stock: 6
G d’Estournel evokes the wonderment of an explorer returned home from the Far East, his soul replete with luminous memories of majestic Indian elephants, shimmering Burmese gold, the finest of Nepalese silks, the warm glow of Vietnamese lanterns…

A harmony of delectable fruit, a whiff of incense, the sheen of a case inlaid with mother of pearl… and memories of these refined, opulent delights suddenly spring back to life.

MERLOT : 86%
CABERNET SAUVIGNON : 13%
CABERNET FRANC : 1%

The vineyard saw more extreme weather conditions and less rain than Cos d’Estournel. Fortunately, the vineyard was able to compensate for climatic conditions thanks to the age of its vines and their roots, which forever dig deeper from one year to the next, light ploughing efforts—carried out more intensely than usual—and the fresh air brought by the nearby Gironde Estuary.

The 2019 vintage of G d’Estournel delivers vivacity and balance; it is at once fresh and rich, vigorous and discreet. Vibrant and highly spirited, with unmistakable notes of pepper, it is a long, silky wine, whose nose of blackcurrant and violet is highlighted by aromas of eucalyptus, thyme and rosemary.

2016 CHATEAU COS D'ESTOURNEL 'LES PAGODES DE COS’, SAINT-ESTEPHE
Price: $93.00                     Your Price: $81.84
The joy and spontaneity of moments shared with loved ones. An impromptu lunch with friends is the perfect occasion to open a bottle of Pagodes de Cos. It is reminiscent of the simple pleasures of life, like homemade blackcurrant syrup, a bowl of just-picked red cherries or a freshly opened jar of citrus jam. Pagodes de Cos is at once indulgent, comforting and vivacious, like a carefree conversation with family or friends in a familiar place.

(92 Points) Robert Parker's Wine Advocate The 2016 Les Pagodes de Cos is blended of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 46.5% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot and 0.5% Cabernet Franc. It has a deep garnet-purple color and opens with notions of warm cassis, black cherries and smoked meats giving way to scents of charcoal, underbrush and cloves plus a waft of new leather. Medium to full-bodied, it fills the palate with generous black fruits and some compelling red fruit sparks, supported by ripe, grainy tannins and finishing long and spicy.

2014 CHATEAU COS D'ESTOURNEL 'LES PAGODES DE COS', SAINT-ESTEPHE
Price: $75.00                     Your Price: $66.00                Quantity in Stock: 12
(90 Points)  The 2014 Les Pagodes de Cos, now in bottle, seems to be wasting no time in appeasing those who like to drink their Bordeaux young. (And why not? This is a deuxième vin after all.) The nose is open and generous with blackberry fruit tinged with dark chocolate and a touch of mint, the graphite element not evident here as it was in barrel. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp tannin, very well-judged acidity and very fine focus. Like the Grand Vin, this is not an exotic or flamboyant Cos d'Estournel, but no way would you describe it as lean. There is an easy-drinking approachable nature to this Les Pagodes de Cos, without precluding it of precision and length, whilst the graphite note pops up right at the finish and on the aftertaste. This delightful wine should be drinking from 2018 and over the next decade. Tasted February 2017.  Robert Parker's Wine Advocate