Chateau Haut Brion Dinner at Wine Watch
Wednesday, February 17, 2010 - 07:00 PM
This Event has been read: 360 times.
"Red wine with fish. Well, that should have told me something."
Bond in From Russia with Love (1963)
[FIRSTNAME], you can eat fish and drink red wine, but we don't recommend it especially with wines like Chateau Haut Brion. The recent Chateau Margaux tasting was incredible and for our second "once in a lifetime" event of 2010 we will be featuring another one of the World's most famous wines from Bordeaux Chateau Haut Brion.
How many times will you be able to tasting this legendary wine back to the 1959 vintage? That is why we call this series of tastings "once in a lifetime". With the price of all the "blue chip" wines from Bordeaux reaching stratospheric proportions the price of this event is almost irrelative. If you can afford to drink Chateau Haut Brion, you don’t need to ask how much it costs. We will taste through 12 vintage of this first growth Bordeaux covering 6 decades including vintages like: 1959, 1966, 1970, 1982, 1990, 1996, 2000 and more... Chef Michael Saperstein will be preparing a special five course tasting menu to accompany the tasting wines. The fee for this tasting is $625 per person for reservations call 954-523-9463.
Chateau Haut Brion Tasting at Wine Watch
Wednesday, February 17th 7pm
1959 Haut Brion Pessac Leognan
(93 Points) The 1959 Haut-Brion did not live up to expectations. I have had nearly perfect examples of the 1959, often preferring it ever so slightly to the 1961 when tasted side by side. That was not the case in Munich. Although the 1959 was outstanding, it seemed less concentrated, more disjointed, and more evolved than the 1961, displaying a more roasted aromatic profile, and less sweetness and unctuosity than previous bottles.
The notes for this wine are taken from the description of Series IV - Flight D of the 1995 tasting conducted in Munich by Helga and Hardy Rodenstock. Many years after the tasting from which this note derives allegations were made concerning the authenticity of old and rare bottles of wine sold by Hardy Rodenstock to collectors around the world. The matter has been the subject of numerous articles, litigation and at least one book. Mr. Parker believes that the wines served to him at this tasting were authentic so this note and the others from that specific tasting continue to be posted on eRobertParker.com. Wine Advocate # 103, Feb 1996
1966 Haut Brion Pessac Leognan
(86 Points) At its apogee, the 1966 Haut-Brion has an attractive, earthy, moderately intense, fruity bouquet. In weight and richness, it is medium weight and bordering on being too lean and light. It is a satisfying, lighter-styled Haut-Brion that is quite attractive, but not really of first-growth proportions. Drink over the next 1-2 years. Anticipated maturity: Now. Last tasted, 11/84. Bordeaux Book, 3rd Edition # B1, Jan 1998
1970 Haut Brion Pessac Leognan
(85 Points) Although surprisingly light-bodied, consistently pleasant and enjoyable, this is an undistinguished effort. The 1970 Haut-Brion has always come across as angular, and lacking the exceptional perfume and complexity this estate can achieve. In this tasting, the wine displayed vegetal, tobacco scents, good spice, some fruit, and a medium ruby color with significant amber. The tannin and acidity were too high for the amount of fruit, glycerin, and extract. Drink it up. Wine Advocate # 105, Jun 1996
1975 Haut Brion Pessac Leognan
(93 Points) Blame me for completely misjudging this wine early in its life. I have since purchased it at auction because of its price/quality ratio. Haut-Brion, which can begin life as a soft, light wine, never appeared to have much intensity when tasted beside the phenomenal La Mission-Haut-Brion and La Tour-Haut-Brion. However, over the last 5-7 years that has changed. Either the wine has put on considerable weight, or I was off-form the many times I tasted it when young. The wine has developed the hauntingly complex, tobacco, roasted herb, singed leather, smoky, sweet, fruity nose of a great Haut-Brion. Full-bodied and intense, with noticeable ripe tannin, this is a wine of considerable richness and intensity. It offers delicious drinking after 1-2 hours of decanting, even though noticeable tannin remains. This wine is capable of another 15-20 years of cellaring. Yes, I did indeed underestimate this wine. I tasted it a half-dozen times in 1995 and at each tasting it was a formidable wine. Do not be surprised to see this rating go even higher, as I do not believe the 1975 Haut-Brion has reached its pinnacle. Impressive! Wine Advocate # 103, Feb 1996
1982 Haut Brion Pessac Leognan
(95 Points) I know Jean Delmas, whom I respect as one of the world’s greatest wine producers, has always thought the 1982 Haut Brion was similar to the 1959, but I have yet to see that. It seems to me the 1989 is closer to the 1959, another perfect wine and one of the all-time great Haut Brions. While the 1982 is a beauty, it has never hit the highest notes this vintage or terroir can achieve. Complex aromatics of scorched earth, smoked herbs, and sweet red and black currants are followed by a full-bodied, silky-textured wine, but I have never felt this offering has possessed the concentration, texture, or multidimensional personality found in such vintages as 1989, 1990, and more recent years. Nevertheless, this is essentially splitting hairs as the 1982 remains a superb Haut Brion. Seemingly less evolved than the 1990, it is capable of another 20-30 years of longevity. Perhaps there is something in reserve that will reveal itself in the next decade. Drink now-2035. Release price: ($400.00/case) Wine Advocate # 183, Jun 2009
1989 Haut Brion Pessac Leognan
Price: $1350 Sale $1188
(1 bottle available)
(100 Points) Haut-Brion has been the most consistent first-growth over the last decade, producing top-notch wines, even in such tough years as 1987, 1993, and 1994. The 1989 is one of a handful of truly profound wines from a vintage that tends to be overrated, save for the Pomerols, a few St.-Emilions, and some overachievers in the Medoc. However, 1989 was an extraordinary success for Jean Delmas, the administrator of Haut-Brion and La Mission-Haut-Brion. The prodigious 1989 Haut-Brion is one of the greatest first-growths I have ever tasted. It has always reminded me of what the 1959 must have tasted like in its youth, but it is even richer and more compelling aromatically. The wine exhibits an opaque ruby/purple color, as well as a sweet nose of jammy fruit, tobacco, spicy oak, minerals, and smoke. Fabulously concentrated, with huge levels of fruit, extract, and glycerin, this wine is nearly viscous because of its thickness and richness. Low acidity gives the wine even more appeal and adds to its precociousness. The wine has not budged in development since it was first bottled, although it has always provided thrilling drinking because of its voluptuous texture. It needs another 5-6 years of bottle age before it will begin to develop Haut-Brion's fabulous fragrance. Expect it to hit its plateau of maturity around 2003-2005 and drink well for 15-25 years. Wine Advocate # 109, Feb 1997
1990 Haut Brion Pessac Leognan
Price: $975 Sale $858
(3 bottles avialable)
(98 Points) 1990: In terms of the brilliant complexity and nobility of the aromatics, scorched earth, black currants, plums, charcoal, cedar, and spices, the 1990 offers an aromatic explosion that is unparalleled. It is always fascinating to taste this wine next to the 1989, which is a monumental effort, but much more backward and denser, without the aromatic complexity of the 1990. The 1990 put on weight after bottling, and is currently rich, full-bodied, opulent, even flamboyant by Haut Brion’s standards. It is an incredible expression of a noble terroir in a top vintage. While it has been fully mature for a number of years, it does not reveal any bricking at the edge, and I suspect it will stay at this level for another 10-15 years ... but why wait? It is irresistible now. Release price: ($1200.00/case) Wine Advocate # 183, Jun 2009
1999 Haut Brion Pessac Leognan
(93 Points) Deep plum, currant, and mineral notes emerge from the concentrated, beautifully balanced, pure 1999 Haut Brion. It seems to be cut from the same mold as years such as 1979 and 1985. There is a hint of graphite in the abundant fruit. The wine is medium to full-bodied, nuanced, subtle, deep, and provocatively elegant. It is made in a style that only Haut Brion appears capable of achieving. The finish is extremely long, the tannins sweet, and the overall impression one of delicacy interwoven with power and ripeness. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2025. Wine Advocate # 140, Apr 2002
2000 Haut Brion Pessac Leognan
(98 Points) It will always be tempting to compare the 2000 Haut-Brion with the perfect 2000 La Mission Haut-Brion. However, it is not as fat, unctuous, flamboyant, or voluminous as La Mission. Yet, like a great diplomat, it is a wine of intensity, authority, and measured restraint. A supremely elegant offering, its dense ruby/purple color, and burgeoning perfume of scorched earth, liquid minerals, plums, black currants, cherries, lead pencil, and subtle spicy oak are followed by a delicate yet powerfully flavorful, multi-layered, highly nuanced, and extraordinarily pure and seamless wine. There have been so many recent classics from Haut-Brion, it is premature to suggest the 2000 is better than the 1998, 1995, 1990, or 1989, but it is certainly a prodigious wine of dazzling persistence, length, and complexity. A blend of 51% Merlot, 42% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 7% Cabernet Franc, it should prove to be uncommonly long-lived, even by the standards of Haut-Brion. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2040. Wine Advocate # 146, Apr 2003
2001 Haut Brion Pessac Leognan
Price: $325 Sale $286
(2 bottles avialable)
(94 Points) Haut-Brion’s 2001, which was bottled late (the end of September, 2003), possesses an unmistakable nobility as well as a burgeoning complexity. Plum/purple to the rim, this blend of 52% Merlot, 36% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 12% Cabernet Franc is playing it close to the vest, having closed down considerably after bottling. Nevertheless, it reveals pure notes of sweet and sour cherries, black currants, licorice, smoke, and crushed stones. Medium-bodied with excellent purity, firm tannin, and an angular, structured finish, it requires 5-7 years of cellaring. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2020+. Wine Advocate # 153, Jun 2004
2003 Haut Brion Pessac Leognan
Price: $425 Sale $374
(1 bottles avialable)
(95 Points) The blockbuster 2003 Haut-Brion (13% alcohol) possesses extremely high tannin, but that component is well-concealed by a cascade of mulberry, blackberry, cherry, and plum-like fruit. There is even a hint of figs under the blue and red fruit spectrum. While broad and ripe with a sweet, glyceral mouthfeel as well as a long, powerful, persistent finish, it retains its elegance and nobility. A wine of both power and finesse, it will benefit from 3-4 years of cellaring, and keep for 25-30. Wine Advocate # 164, Apr 2006
2004 Haut Brion Pessac Leognan
Price: $350 Sale $308
(7 bottles available)
(92 Points) The dark plum/ruby-hued 2004 Haut-Brion exhibits a noble, discrete, smoky bouquet revealing notions of plum liqueur, black currants, sweet cherries, and subtle earth. In addition to its aromatic complexity, this medium-bodied effort reveals classic elegance and delicacy as well as sweet fruit in the mouth and a long finish. Give this streamlined, civilized wine 2-4 years of bottle age and drink it over the following 20-25 years. It is amazingly similar to Haut-Brion’s 1999. Wine Advocate # 171, Jun 2007
Dinner Menu
Mixed Green Salad with Heirloom Tomatoes
Duck Confit with orange Jam Toast Points and Carmelized carrots
Sliced NY Strip with Pomme Frites
A brief history of Chateau Haut Brion:
It is commonly - but erroneously supposed - that the famous 1855 Classification of the great wines of Bordeaux was a classification of the Médoc only, with Château Haut Brion in the Graves somehow muscling in because it was too prestigious to be excluded. A research of the facts proves this widely held belief to be untrue. The 1855 Classification was, in fact, a list of the best wines of the entire Bordeaux area. If no Saint-Emilions or Pomerols appear, and indeed no other Graves, it was because they were not considered good enough. Haut Brion, however, made the list as one of the four original premiers crus just behind Lafite, Margaux, and Latour; furthermore, it can claim to be the most senior of them all. Château Haut Brion is in fact the oldest wine producing estate in the entire Bordeaux area. Not only was it the first to establish itself and not only did it fetch a much higher price than the other first growths for nearly a century after, Château Haut Brion was also the very first single-property Bordeaux wine to be mentioned in English literature. The following quote is from Samuel Pepys's diary on 10 April 1663: "to the Royal Oake Taverne...And here drank a sort of French wine called Ho Bryan, tha hath a good and most particular taste that I never met with." Pepys several times refers to claret in his diary and at least once to clarets in the plural, denoting that several alternatives were on offer. However, nowhere else in the diary did he refer to any other Bordeaux wine by name.
There are records of Haut Brion as a place name dating back to the fourteenth century, though at that time it was more commonly rendered D'Aubrion. D'Aubrion passed through a number of hands until the lands and building were acquired by the Pontac family, a dynasty of wealthy merchants and politicians which flourished at Haut Brion (and did much to establish its enormous early reputation) until Napoleonic times. The name Haut Brion, also referred to interchangeably by this time as Pontac, is also recorded in the works of Dryden, Defoe, Swift and John Evelyn. The latter wrote from London in July 1683 of having "much discourse with M. Pontaq...owner of that excellent vignoble of Pontaq and O'Brien, from whence came the choicest of our Bordeaux wines". More interestingly, the property was actually visited by the great political philosopher John Locke on May 14, 1677. Locke wrote: "It is a little rise of ground open to the west, in a white sand mixed with gravel - scarce fitting to bear anything..." Locke goes on to add "that the best quality at Bordeaux is Médoc or Pontac."
Over the ensuing centuries Haut Brion was bought and sold many times - perhaps its most famous proprietor was the French Foreign Minister, Talleyrand, who purchased it in 1801 after the previous owner had been guillotined. After Talleyrand's brief stewardship, Haut Brion suffered a period of decline and changed hands several more times. Auctioned in 1836 for almost 300,000 francs, the estate was purchased by a Parisian banker, Joseph-Eugène Larrieu. This was a turning point for Haut Brion - the Larrieu dynasty lasted nearly a 100 years during which time Haut Brion enjoyed one of the most successful stretches in its illustrious history. However, just before World War I, Haut Brion went through a very difficult period and began to slip badly until it was sold once again in the mid 1930's. The purchaser was Clarence Dillon, an American financier. He paid 2,350,000 francs, a little over $300,000 at the rate of exchange ruling at the time. Cheval-Blanc, it is said, was also on the market for the same very reasonable price; and so was the great Château Ausone. However, Dillon and his party got lost in the fog and never reached either of the latter properties; they settled for Haut Brion and its comfortable accessibility to the city. In 1962 the management company, Domaine Clarence Dillon SA, was transferred to Douglas Dillon, former United States Ambassador and Secretary of the Treasury under Kennedy. The president of the company is now his daughter Joan, Duchesse de Mouchy; the senior Dillon died in 1979 at the age of 96. The last 25 years have seen an extensive program of modernization of Haut Brion under the direction of the resident administrators Georges Delmas, who arrived at Haut Brion in 1921 and his son Jean-Bernard, the current director of affairs, who took over in 1960.
The château itself was built in 1550 and enlarged in the 1740's and is familiar to anyone who has seen the label on a bottle of Haut Brion. In the courtyard outside, a male and female stone lion crouch on guard. Inside in the hall is a plaque commemorating the fact that Clarence and Anne Dillon equipped the Château as a hospital and gave it to the French for use during the Second World War. The building faces west, away from the vineyard, and lies in a small parc anglais. Deeper in this garden are tennis courts and a swimming pool; and further on is the back entrance to the house of Jean-Bernard Delmas.
Haut Brion is in Pessac in the northern end of the Graves district, three miles from the center of Bordeaux. Across the road is the great Château La Mission Haut Brion, a property that sometimes rivals and even surpasses Haut Brion. At one time in the Middle Ages, La Mission was most certainly a part of Haut Brion. These are the nearest major vineyards to the heart of the city; and these two, virtually alone, have been able to withstand the march of concrete from the city outward. The vineyard, which straddles both sides of the main Bordeaux-Arcachon road and railway, is planted to 115 acres of vines in the ratio of 55 per cent cabernet sauvignon, 20 per cent cabernet franc, and 25 per cent merlot - a higher cabernet and lower merlot percentage than a few years ago. Jean Delmas, one of the most able and respected winemakers in Bordeaux, was one of the first in Bordeaux to see the implications of the right rootstock as well as of clonal selection of the vines. For the last twenty years, and more particularly since 1977, he has been conducting experiments to produce the best clone for each of the three grape varieties. In total there are some 550 individual clones now coming into fruition. This research will enable poor quality clones and sterile plants to be progressively eliminated. Delmas belies the image that winemakers for the great growths are nothing more than caretakers. Improving on the very best
has been the life goal of Jean Delmas. Haut Brion also produces an exquisite dry white known as Haut Brion Blanc. For the white there are some eight acres under vine - half sauvignon blanc and half sémillon. The wine is fermented and aged in new oak and bottled fourteen to sixteen months after the harvest. It is a wine which is rarely offered on the Bordeaux market and not often seen on winelists except in the top local restaurants. The quality of the wine, however, is very high and is generally considered the very best of the now chic white wines of Graves. In addition, there is a second label for the red known as Bahans Haut Brion.
The one word used to sum up the red of Château Haut Brion is elegant. One could also add charming and consistent. Although Haut Brion does not have the acclaim of Lafite or Pétrus or fetch the same sort of astronomical prices at auction, it is certainly in their same class. Moreover, when one considers quality, prestige, and historical legacy, Château Haut Brion must be considered the single most important wine estate in France.